Archive for the ‘Rebuild’ Category

Alive again

Saturday, April 3rd, 2010

Ok, so in the process of trying to “optimize” the driving experience, I made a few mistakes.  Fortunately, I’ve been able to fix almost all of them. The regen circuit now is activated by the brake lights, so the car now drives just like a car.  Very cool.

While I was fussing around in the controller compartment, I tried to get the DC-DC converter to work.  However, this resulted in me frying my DC-DC converter (fortunately, this is an relatively inexpensive mistake).  The good thing is that EV Components has more of them.

I’m hoping to get the tachometer working tomorrow.  I spent about 3 hours getting a neat circuit put together that will drive some indicator lights.  One is the “ready” signal and the other is the “fault” signal – both from the motor controller.  Since I know I’ll want to see these lights while driving and while testing, I set it up so there are two of each lights – one set in the dash and one set near the motor controller.

Radio Shack was my friend, as was Tim Kutscha for his diagram.  Naturally, I didn’t do it exactly his way, but that is the fun of all of this. This version uses 2 resisters – one for each input and 4 transisters – one for each light.  The box has 12v ready LEDs, the other lights are the more usual incandescent lights.

The circuit is inside this box:

Das Blinken Lighten

Circuit for showing "Ready" and "Fault"

Dash Progress and BMS Battery Connectors

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

The new guages are installed – one is for the pack voltage, the other is the pack current.  Both are left and above the dash.  Speedo is also reinstalled, so the passenger compartment is (mostly) done.

Pack Voltage and Current meters

Working on the BMS battery connectors now.  A lot of fiddly little parts that require a magnifying glass (for my somewhat older eyes) and a good soldering iron.  Elithion did a very good job with their battery connectors – they actually show the color of wire to hook up where.  On the end of each battery group there is a connector that will have two wires attached – either black/red or green/white.  If you look carefully at the two wire connector on their part, it says B R / G W (or something like that).  Nice job.  :)

Elithion Battery Connector and Communication Connectors

I still have the rear battery pack to work on, and then it is time to fuss once again in the rear trunk – I now have a quick disconnect for the battery pack that I need to fit in.

Speedometer Rebuild

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Since the trip reset cable was missing, I took the opportunity to have the speedometer rebuilt.  At Sean’s suggestion, I sent it to North Hollywood Speedometer after getting a quote from them.  Very fast turn-around, very nice work.  When I realized I hadn’t asked for a reset cable, I called back, they remembered my speedo. They were able to build up a cable and sent it to me the next day….another amazing company.

Wye a Motor?

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

Since I’m going to go with the higher voltage, I have to change the wiring of the motor from Delta to Wye (hence the bad joke in the title).

Getting to the wiring was challenging, since one of the hex bolts holding the protective plate was stripped during initial installation. Thanks to Sears, I now have some nice tools to remove stripped screws and bolts.  Fortunately, my wife went with me to the store, otherwise who knows what I would have ended up bringing home!  (called the “ooooh it’s shiny!” syndrome)

Once I got the wires exposed, I thought a before picture would help explain. Here is the Delta wiring:

Delta wiring for the AC24

Delta wiring for the AC24

And then after the rearrangement of wiring to Wye:

Wye wiring for AC24

Wye wiring for AC24

Now I have to put the cover back on, but that requires instant gasket goop to seal the wires in.  *sigh* Yet another trip to the store.

Major rewiring

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

Well, nuts.  The new charger won’t fit into the front trunk, so it will be installed in the rear comparment, along with the new DC-DC converter.  I’m also putting the aux battery in the rear compartment.

Net result:  no need for relays in the front compartment or engine compartment.  I’m creating a new relay panel that will go in the rear trunk, and will move the DC shunt to the mid compartment (nearest the amp meter).   Lots of rewiring, and re-organizing, and most likely a new set of connectors in the engine compartment.

I’ll post pictures once the relay panel is installed.

New front suspension

Sunday, May 31st, 2009

Sean took the car for a week, and added a new front sway bar (21mm) with chassis re-inforcement, poly-graphite front bushings, and a new rear-trunk release.  All very spiffy, and all done VERY nicely.  I continue with the minor wiring work for now.

The new sway bar has a minor problem, in that it interferes with the middle battery compartment battery rack.  New metal was required.

New front sway bar

New front sway bar

The new rear trunk release has the knob just under the driver’s seat.  I wouldn’t have seen it if Sean hadn’t told me where to look.

Rear trunk release just under the driver's seat

Rear trunk release just under the driver's seat

Front trunk is painted and ready

Sunday, September 28th, 2008

Wow, painting is hard work.  Almost all of it is preparation and sanding. Um, make that almost all sanding.  I had to use a power grinder to get the spot welds reduced and smoothed.  Next was to prime the bare metal with POR15 (GREAT stuff!).  Then fill in the gaps with bondo.  Sand, smooth, repeat.    I did not do a perfect job on this area, since it is not going to go through concourse.  So here is the finished trunk:

Front trunk now painted

Front trunk now painted

Long time no post

Wednesday, September 10th, 2008

Well, nothing like 3 funerals and a standards meeting to throw one off their stride. (Sounds like a bad british sitcom, doesn’t it?)

However, I have been busy on the car for the last few days.  For example, I have attached the flywheel to the motor – this involves attaching a hub to the motor and then the flywheel to the hub – all within a tight tolerance.

Motor with hub attached

Motor with flywheel attached

And at the same time, I’ve been working with Sean to get the front trunk repaired.  Sean found a donor car for some metal, and cut that donor piece out and then welded that piece into the trunk.  Now I get to grind the metal, seal the seams, smooth everything out and then paint.

Front trunk top weld

Front trunk bottom weld

A/C? What A/C?

Tuesday, June 17th, 2008

Well, dear reader, NEVER say anything is done until the project is over.  Really.

I was getting ready to put in the front battery rack.  This is done by simply placing the rack into the front trunk, marking where you want to drill holes, drilling said holes, and then mounting the rack.  Right.

Sizing in the front Battery Rack

One of the previous owners had put in Air Conditioning (A/C to us  Americans), and another previous owner had removed the A/C.

Something you might not know is that A/C requires cooling.  Cooling requires air flow.  The A/C installation had required this air flow, so someone had cut some rectangular holes into the front trunk (where the A/C radiator had gone).  Then the other owner had simply removed the radiator and hoses (mostly) and fiberglassed over the holes.

The resulting holes look like this:

Vents of the Former A/C

So.  What this means is that I need some metal put in, and welded solid.  Or at least welded into place and then sealed VERY well.  This has put a damper on my previous enthusiasm, you can bet on that.

Oh, and Electro Auto sent the wrong parts for the terminals, but that is another blog.

Controller and Potbox mounted

Monday, May 26th, 2008

Wow, busy few days recently. After *MUCH* delay (house guest, selling airplane, travel, jetlag) I have finally gotten around to doing more work on the poor, neglected 914.

First of all, most of the rustoration is done (many thanks to the Houseguest for helping paint and cut metal). The engine compartment was the worst offender. I was able to find a local paint store that was close to the original color, and will do for the interior engine areas (but not for the exterior).

More no-rust area in engine compartment

Engine compartment with no rust

Note that I did not get rid of that stupid glue on the firewall that used to hold the insulation. The insulation was terrible – it held moisture up against the firewall, a great way to invite rust. The glue proved too difficult to remove at this time.

Controller mounted

And there is the controller mounted in its final position. Note that the grounding strap is not yet attached – this was done later (I had troubles getting the mounting hardware to work).

Potbox mounted

The potbox was an interesting part. Mainly because the spring was supposed to be attached to the upper-right 1/8 inch hole. Well, as you can see, there is a lower-left hand and a lower-right hand hole, but no upper. Thank goodness for the internets and other 914 conversion nuts. :)

More work to come, now that I’m motivated and mostly through with rustoration. :)

Engine is out

Monday, March 24th, 2008

Ok, so the engine is pulled, and gosh, there’s rust! Oh, and the car used to have air conditioning, so it was “fun” pulling the engine around the compressor and hoses. I’ve got a bit of work to remove the rust and glue from the sound insulation (worthless stuff) now.

Engine out

Battery Shelf

Gastank Gone

MORE parts due to arrive

Tuesday, February 19th, 2008

Of course, these parts are due to arrive when I am out of town.  Again.  And of course, the installation manual is not part of this package.  WHEN is that going to arrive????  ARgh.

On the positive side, at least the brakes are going to be in very good shape. The rear calipers are being rebuilt, and being painted a very spiffy black.  :)

Transmission is re-installed

Monday, December 10th, 2007

Wow, the transmission has finally been rebuilt and reinstalled.

Reinstalled Transmission

So nice and clean – that won’t last long, though. :)

Many thanks to Brad Roberts and Sean Molloy for their expertise in this process. Both of them are available for hire and do very nice work, feel free to contact me for their number.
Sean posing near the now-working car

That’s Sean posing by the now-working car.

Rust

Tuesday, November 13th, 2007

While I’m waiting for the electric parts to show up, I’m tacking some rust on the body.  Rust is one of the major killers of 914s.  There are several areas that are of major concern, one of which is named the “hell hole”, I kid you not.  This hole is just under the battery, and is caused by water and battery acid (yikes!).  I’m not brave enough to get to that yet, but instead I’m removing the rust around the front trunk.

Oh, and I’m also hoping to get my transmission put back together this week so I can start driving the car.  Hope springs eternal and all that.

Transmission

Sunday, August 5th, 2007

Brad stopped by on sunday and “helped” me take the transmission out. By helping, I mean I held the light and watched as he did a bunch of wrenching under the car. Good thing, too, because there were some hidden bolts, and I would have forgotten to disconnect the ground strap.

For those of you that have never seen the inside of a transmission, it is a bit daunting, lots of gears and arms, all covered with oil.
Transmission taken apart
It’s just weird stuff. Thank goodness I’ve got Brad to help on this.

Here’s a closeup of the gears.

Transmission Gears
The underside of the car where the transmission mounts to the engine is just a mess.

Missing Transmission