I was told 3 weeks for a new adaptor, and its only been 2 weeks. I must be getting impatient. Meantime, I’ve updated my wiring diagram, and will start the rewiring this weekend (subject to the usual interruptions).
I’m also trying to find some software so I can talk to the motor controller, but that’s a very difficult proposition.
As a public service, I hereby proclaim:
DO NOT USE PERMANENT LOCTITE!
At some point in the future, you will need to dismantle your machine, and using permanent loctite will make this a very painful experience.
Use blue loctite instead.
(This was discovered as we were trying to dismantle the old motor adaptor).
Well, I’m going to use a different machinist to create the motor adaptor. It’s going to be a big project, as the current motor is only 9″ in diameter and the new motor is about 13.5″ in diameter. So we have to move the rear battery pack up 1.5″, and create a new motor mount for the motor – so it will be a squeeze fitting it in.
Plus, we have to mill a brand new motor adaptor – this will mate the motor to the transmission. This adaptor has to be precisely a certain length in order for the clutch to work properly.
Work starts on monday. Will keep you posted on the progress.
Well, my mechanic informed me that the shops that would do computer-controlled CNC are backed up for 2 to 4 months. So he’s going to do it the old fashioned way – milling machines and measuring. This is, of course, for the new motor adaptor for the new motor. Hey – with luck I’ll be driving the new motor by New Years. 
When the heat strikes I do to. Once the temp goes above 90, I have difficult leaving the house. This is partly due to living in Santa Cruz for so many years, and personal preference.
Anyways, I got the front wheel bearings tightened up today – they were wobbling a bit and I didn’t know why. After the mechanic stopped laughing at me, it took all of 20 minutes to do. I’m really hoping to start replacing the battery interconnects soon – I want them done before the new motor mount shows up (is taking a while to get a 3d model built up – more money would speed things for sure).
As promised, here is the diagram with relays so you, too, can spin your GLEC motor.
Thanks for all the help – I hope this helps others as well.
Wow. Took a while, but with a new job, spare time is hard to come by. At least I won’t be travelling for business (yay!).
Turns out that I had to enable the forward pin by applying +12v. The contactor line-out is also a ground source (so I had to have the contactor supply +12 to the line). Interesting method, not what I’m used to, so it was a surprise.
I’m going to update the diagrams and will post them, just in case someone wants them.
YAY!
I just got the car back from the mechanic. I had a problem with intermittent electrical issues (the 12v system, not the electric drive). For some reason, brake lights and turn signals were getting confused and not working. Turns out it was a the ground connection for the main wiring harness being rusty and not connecting properly.
My advice to you: convert the latest car you can.
A coworker’s advice: convert the largest car you can (she has a Kewet – tiny little thing).
There are times when it is faster *and* cheaper to buy parts. Good examples are the motor, controller and stuff like that. Another example is battery interconnects. I had earlier posted that I need to have flexible battery interconnects, and that I was going to build them. Well, my mechanical skills are not so good, and the resulting interconnects are not very good.
So, I ended up buying most of them. From Australia. I have trouble believing that you cannot find these parts in North America….but I can’t find them here.
http://www.evworks.com.au/index.php?product=BAT-EVW-BCI-80-8
Good people at Evworks, I’ve bought from them before.
Wow. I was going through the email that my friend in Shenzen was forward to me with some translation, and I FINALLY realized that I could also translate using Google. Well. Color me surprised. Yes, it was literally translated properly, but no, it wasn’t correctly translated. So, I’m trying to use Google Translate to do both english and chinese to the factory to make sure I’ve got it all correct with the controller.
For those following the saga at home, the 16-pin connector has a bunch of extra lines out. Those lines out (9-15) are options that can be programmed at the factory – meaning they do nothing for me. Now I just need to figure out how the potbox connects and whether I really need -12 and +12 or just +12 and ground. Details, details.
Well, remember the nice solid copper battery interconnects I hand-made? And how some people said I needed to use braided cable? Well, after doing Yet More Research, they were right. The problem is that batteries move – all the time – even if you have them strapped. Mine aren’t strapped. So if batteries move, and the interconnects don’t, the batteries eventually get damaged.
So, in an effort to build some new ones, I tried two techniques: wrapping copper plate around the cable, and crimping copper pipe to the cable. As you can see from picture, the pipe does a lot better job. The pipe crimps nicely to the cable, and doesn’t leave much sticking up (unlike the plate).
So – only 106 more connectors to build.
Copper plate on left side, copper pipe on right side
My wife pointed out that the brake lights are very dim on the 914, and I had to agree. Since I’m using LED light bulbs, this shouldn’t be happening. It’s odd, though, the bulbs have between 11 and 15 LEDs but only the center LED is on. I checked the voltage, and it seems ok (13.2 volts), so it must be a current limitation somewhere in the system.
Apparently, the 914s have a weakness in their electrical system at the fuse box inside the main cabin. The wires get old and break, or the connectors lose their grip, or the wires get crushed by the fuse box and the insulation starts to go. Or all the above. Sparky is going back to the shop to see about fixing this very, very soon.
I finally got tired of the rain pouring through the roof (even with the targa top on) and got Sean to replace all the rubber seals in the roof. Naturally, he had to take the seats out to do this, as it requires clambering about inside the small cabin. Of course, when he did this, he checked for rust (this is something you should always do with an older car, especially one without rust protection). Of course, he found rust.
Of course, he fixed it. AND added in a frame stiffener (914s are a bit weak along the cabin frame). VERY nice work.
Rust under the driver seat.
Frame stiffener and insulation.
More padding/insulation. Notice - no rust!
Cabin re-carpeted. No sign of Sean's work.
New rubber seals - apparently a major pain to do.
I finally got some spare time and opened up the controller to see what I could see.
I have a clearer understanding of what most of the lines do – but still do not know where to hook up the accelerator pedal lines. There are 6 lines called “Function” that lead to KB5, KB6, KB7, KB8 and two unmarked inputs on the controller. Not much help there.
I also have a rough idea about the serial lines – three lines that are labeled “gorge line transmit, receive and place” which are hooked to T2OUT, R2IN and one unlabeled wire.
Front of the Controller
Wires from Front to Main Board
Wires from Front to Main Board
Rear of Controller
Sorry about the delays – had a week-long face-to-face meeting, compleate with a BBQ at my house and a dinner at a local restaurant. Busy busy busy. I really hope to have time this weekend for reviewing the motor.
Ok, since people have been asking for it, I’m posting the manual, the canbus info and the torque curve.
Hopefully this will work out for everyone. Please go gentle on my server.
After helping set up a plant sale at Balboa Park, my wife and I made a stop at the Kick Gas Club. Neat little shop set up by a retired mechanic that specializes in helping people convert their car to electric drive. The purpose was to see if they could help me with the motor adaptor (which they can’t right now), but they did give me some good ideas on how to proceed.
(BTW – if you are going to get a brand new motor – see if someone else has used it first and get their feedback before putting money into it).
The club can be found here: http://kick-gas-club-electric-conversions.com/index.html
Over the weekend I added some isolation to the charger and removed the ground connections, so the charger is completely floating now (relative to ground). This was done by putting some ABS plastic under the charger, and trimming off the ground wires that attach to the charger.
I also replaced the BMS master board, as the feedback from the charger might have damaged it. Not sure what did damage the BMS, but it is working now. I also had to turn the voltage down on the charger a bit – I suspect the voltage adjust knob is moving on its own.
At the Qualcomm Earth Day celebration, I was able to show off my car – alongside 2 Teslas, a Leaf, a Volt, a plug-in Prius, and a Kewet. Got a LOT of interest in the car – I had printed out 30 handouts, and quickly ran out. I should have printed at least 100!
Well, it took a while, but the motor has finally arrived. Spent 2 weeks in US Customs, and another 3.5 days for delivery here, but it is sitting in my garage and smirking at me.
Stats: 11.5″ diameter, 11″ length, 40mm shaft diameter.
New motor from Shengen Motors.
