I took the car for a brief drive up and down the block. Really sad performance – I need to find out what is wrong, as this is not how it should perform.
Will keep you posted.
I took the car for a brief drive up and down the block. Really sad performance – I need to find out what is wrong, as this is not how it should perform.
Will keep you posted.
Ok, so the cooling system is all in place now – no leaks. I’ve got the pump hooked up to run whenever the key is on. Makes a small gurgle noise, so there is still some air in the system.
Hints: when installing new hoses, stretch the new hose where it will go over the barbs – makes life a LOT easier for the installer. Also, make sure the fittings are snug – otherwise, while the hose might be water-tight, the fitting could leak.
I was hoping to bring the car off the jackstands this weekend, but with the rain coming through, it is not very likely. Really don’t want to mix rain and electrical parts – especially since I haven’t re-installed the rear trunk lid.
I’ll post a picture of the radiators later.
Ok, the adaptor is complete, and ready to install. We’ve made a few attempts to put it in, but had a problem with the spacing around the clutch. This has been resolved by allowing the pressure plate to move back 0.2″. During the wait, I’ve rewired the relays, added in a pump and resevoir, and a third brake light. Hope to have the motor and transmission installed on Sunday.
The brake light is a strip of weatherproof side-facing LEDs from www.superbrightleds.com. The wires are hidden behind the chrome.
Since both the motor and the controller use liquid cooling, I had to add in a pump and reservoir. I’ll be running coolant lines from the pump to the controller to the motor to the radiators and back.
The new motor is heavy – 98kg! (216lb). So we have to use this hoist to get the motor and transmission into the car.
The new motor is significantly larger than the old one. The gap between the new motor and the battery rack is about 6mm (1/4″).