Archive for the ‘Research’ Category

Computer Control of Power and Fan

Friday, July 16th, 2010

I’ve been playing with the Parallax Stamp computer and have come to this conclusion:  it is fun.  :)

My main process is going to have these steps:

main:

read motor temp

if (temp < 130C) use high power, fan is off

else if (temp < 145C) use medium power, fan is off

else if (temp > 150C) use medium power, fan is on

goto main

This loop will only use 2 relays (one for fan, one for power control).  If I were to use low power setting, I’d need another relay.

I’m hoping to install the computer this weekend, but the weather may delay that (getting REALLY hot here in San Diego).  At the very least, I hope to replace the power supply for the BMS with something much smaller.

Crazy computer idea

Monday, June 21st, 2010

I’ve gone and purchased a small embedded computer to read the motor temperature and enable/disable the fan for the motor (www.parallax.com).  Nice stuff, very easy to work with.

However, since I now have this computing capability, why not use it to set the power settings for the controller as well?  The idea is that when the motor is cold, allow more power to flow into the motor, and when it is warm, turn down the power.  Azure Dynamics has 3 power settings available (max, norm, economy), and that is selectable by resistance into a line into the controller.

Hmmm.  This is gonna be fun.  :)

Videos of yarn in the wind

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

After some struggle, I got the new air dam in place, and took a video of the airflow.  Attached are the three videos (in time order):  before_mods, after_rear_valence, and after_air_dam.   The videos show the yarn on the motor while driving.  The yarn seems much more lively in the last video.

before_mods

after_rear_valence

after_air_dam

An old yarn

Wednesday, May 26th, 2010

In order to figure out where the airflow is and is not, my mechanic suggested we use a really old technique – tape yarn to the car and see where the wind blows it.  Well, we did that.  We taped a whole bunch of  yarn, courtesy of my charming wife, to the motor, transmission and engine compartment.  Then we video taped the yarn whilst driving.  We discovered that with the big battery box above the motor, there wasn’t very good airflow from the top to the bottom.  Then we removed the rear valence (an air dam just below the rear bumper – used for the now non-existent bumper) and video’d again.  Much better airflow.  So now, I get to replace the air dam in front of the engine compartment with something bigger, and video again.  If this doesn’t improve the airflow, then it will be time for air scoops.

Yarn above the motor

Yarn on the motor

Overtemp

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

Argh. Now that I’m driving the car more, the bugs are starting to come out. On the drive home today and yesterday, the controller has gone into over-temp protection. I need to figure out what is going on. :(

Battery Update

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

Well, I got smart – I talked to the people that actually manufacture the motor and controller and asked their opinion.  I gave them the possible battery packs, and let them choose.  Turns out that there is a “no-mans land” that all but the high voltage pack would hit.  So I’m going to use the 349 volt pack (consisting of 109 batteries with 60 Amp-hours capability). Not cheap, as I was warned, and completely found out, but it should do the job admirably.

So, I await the billing and will get the controller updated at the factory.  Meanwhile, the minor stuff continues to get cleaned up.

Battery decision time

Monday, June 8th, 2009

I went and did some initial testing on the 12 volt system in the car, and it doesn’t have any obvious shorts, so it is ready for testing.

However.  A number of disturbing reports on how badly the car will perform with 1200 pounds of lead acid battery has me very worried.  I’ve read several real-world scenarios of max 50 miles and very weak acceleration.  Since I need need to have freeway speed and the ability to climb some steep hills, this is just not acceptable.

The only solution is to go for a higher voltage battery pack, and lead acid batteries won’t do it.

Time for Lithium.  Lithium Iron Phosphate.  Trouble is, that these are only made in China right now.  And they are expensive.

Comparison time (shipping not included):

  • Lead acid pack, 144 volt, 12.9 kw, $2600.
  • Lithium pack, 163 volt, 13.7 kw, $8000.
  • Lithium pack, 243 volt, 20.4 kw, $12,000.

That last pack will take up the same space as the lead acid batteries, but provide much more voltage and almost twice the available capacity.  The cost is just astounding though.

I’ll keep you posted on any further thoughts on this.

Conversion Kit

Wednesday, July 11th, 2007

The kit I’ll be using for this project is available from Electro Automotive. It contains an AC motor, controller, battery racks, cables, and heavy-duty suspension. This is a bit lazy on my part, but I wanted to have most of the guesswork out of the way on this first project.

What’s interesting (to me) is that it requires the use of old-school 8 volt batteries. The kind that requires constant topping off with water. I asked why not use the newer sealed batteries, and the reply was, “You could, but you would get greatly reduced range and amperage.” Good enough.

Some other projects are looking into state-of-the-art (i.e. ultra expensive) lithium-phosphate batteries. These don’t explode, unlike lithium-ion batteries. They also cost around $2000 per battery. Ummm….don’t think I’ll go that route any time soon.

I ordered the kit on July 10 (mailed the check), so I can expect the kit to arrive within the next two months. The long lead time is due to the fabbing of the battery boxes. The motor and controller will drop-ship from Azure Dynamics. The other parts will ship from Felton to me as they become available.

Cheers!

Starting……now!

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007

Hi Folks,

I just bought a 1975 1.8 liter Porsche 914. It is sunflower yellow, and in pretty good shape. A few spots with rust (although I’m sure I’ll find more later). The transmission needs to be rebuilt (big surprise, eh?) and the engine has a bad case of vapor lock.

Having had the car for a few days, I figured I would start by taking out the old-n-busted alarm system. Easy, I thought. Until I tried to remove the wires leading into the cabin. Um. Ok, so how do I remove that panel from the back of the cabin? Time for the manual (again).

More later!

Cheers, Peter

P.S.  Some photos for you:

Left rear view of the original car

Left front view of the original car